Sulphur Creek Trail
Location: Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Trailhead: Chimney Rock
End: Capitol Reef Visitors Center
Distance: 5.5 miles (9 km)
Time: 4.5 hrs (including breaks and finding our way past the third waterfall)
Note: flash flood hazard
Capitol Reef National Park
The Sulphur Creek Trail is located in Capitol Reef National Park in Utah. For reasons unknown to me, this park is much less popular than places like Zion or Bryce. I found Capitol Reef much more impressive than the a place like Zion, not in the least because it was not crowded at all. The nearby town of Torrey offers lodging, restaurants, gas station and a grocery store. We stayed in a Bed & Breakfast there, although there were still campsites available (in the August high season).
Choosing the trailhead
There are two ways to hike this trail: upstream from the Visitors Center to Chimney Rock, or, starting at Chimney Rock, downstream to the Visitors Center. To avoid hiking back 3 miles of asphalt to your car at either trailhead, it is a good idea to park your car at the end of the trail and hitchhike to the start. In this way you will get to your own car when you’re tired, dirty and very wet from the trail.
So this is what we did: parked our car at the Visitors Center and hitched a ride to the Chimney Rock Trailhead, a 10 minutes drive down highway 24. We were very lucky to arrange our ride the previous day. Our friendly host at our B&B got up very early and solved all our logistic problems. He told us he had lived next to the National Park almost his entire life, but only hiked the Sulphur Creek Trail once as a young boy scout.
Down to the river
The first mile of the trail is southeast, along a dry river bed that leads to the Sulphur Creek. We descended down the dry wash between impressive brown (Moenkopi formation) rock walls, occasionally scrambling down to lower rocks. .
Narrows and Falls
About half a mile further we reached the Goosenecks where we looked up the 800 feet (250 m) high walls. A bit later we saw the first of three waterfalls. The trail passes the first 8 foot (2,5 m) fall a bit higher on the south (right) side. We needed some climbing with our hands to get down to the creek again.
The water on the Sulphur Creek Trail is not only fun. Flash floods are an occasional but very serious hazard here, so everyone will advise you not to hike this trail if there is any chance of rain. We saw dramatic remnants of raging flash floods on our way, showing us that the waters could rise way beyond our heads between the canyon walls.
The Final Stretch
Almost at the end of the trail, the third and last waterfall was too difficult to negotiate. The ledges were way too slippery and we didn’t dare to jump down into water of unknown depth. Luckily we knew there was a detour a few yards back upstream. We climped up a 4 feet (1,5 m) higher ledge, again on the south side of the fall. We found a faint trail following the cairns that were put there by previous hikers.
After more than 4 and a half hours of hiking, climbing and splashing we saw the Visitor Center building with the American flag waving proudly above it. A beautiful sight at the end of this impressive trail.
The Sulphur Creek trail is the perfect hike: a shady canyon, cool water from the creek, not too easy, but not too difficult as well, some scrambling and climbing, and very, very quiet (we met no other people the entire trail). This was certainly the best hike we did in Utah.